Last time my printer did that, there was an alignment problem between the extruder and the end of the hot-end. It later also started to clog the hotend, when the alignment got worse.

The other time I had a similar problem, I’ve unknowingly lost my slicer settings and had the filament size misconfigured.

Yeah, dust is not what you need to care about. But it’s not good to have a printer indoors.

There are enclosed printers that you can plug ventilation ducts that solve this problem. Some have filters, but any filter without a molecular sieve (usually activated coal) won’t help you, because the problem isn’t with dust.

Resin printers also give you problems on handling the resin. It’s not enough to enclose those printers, you need protection equipment and a place to deal with the supplies and recent prints.

Yes, if the reading reaches 0°C the firmware turns off to protect against measurement failures.

There is probably a patch to chamge that temperature.

Yes. This isn’t as bad as the dark lenses without UV filtering that people are throwing around.

But it doesn’t reduce the UV incidence either.

So many questions…

Does it use some high-distance sensor fusion, it only prints things smaller than those builtin rails, or it just assumes wheels never lose traction and fails on every print?

How is the adherence of a random household floor? Does it require some kind of wax or it fails on every print?

Again, how is the adherence of a random household floor? Can objects be removed after printing? Because if you expect models to be correct on the first try, you’ll fail on every print.

I’m sure I can fix a “why?” somewhere among the questions, but the “how?” is so interesting it would only waste space.

Ok. That is a very compelling use case. I guess over some size they become a non-brainier.

You want to minimize wight and vibration on the printing head. And everything that deals with pellets adds a great deal of both.

In theory you can manage to melt the pellets in a static machine away from the printing head. But you will get a lot of new problems getting it where you need and switching it on and off as needed.

There was a ridiculous, completely unbalanced version they published just after Alpha Centauri where the most powerful unit was a van-looking ecoterrorism thing that transformed everything around it into forest.

They could make a sequel to that one instead.

You are thinking about a soldering plate? Those go up to 300°C or some times 400°C.

A phone screen is fixed with hot glue, that starts to melt around 60°C.

Less filament, yes. But it’s almost always weaker.

It’s common to add holes so you get a stronger part.

Hum, ok, I misunderstood you.

Your 1 triangle will need the inclination similar to that middle segment of the bottom side of the piece. I will be huge.

I imagine the “optimized” there means it has the maximum weight support with the minimum amount of filament.

This shape certainly beats a triangle with only the walls or with just a bit of infill. And it surely takes less filament than one with near to 100% of infill.

the bed tramming is normal, even GREAT printers need it done every few weeks or so

I brought my current printer assembled in 2020 (thus, with the bed adjusted). And I have done it once since then.

But I do run auto bed-leveling for every print.

“Composition” is one of those historically loaded names.

I guess all the good names were taken.

Categories are just the same as half of math, with less historical cargo so that they can all forced to look the same. But well, that historical stuff already took all the names.

You usually do not want connectors to be too stable.

The fact that it unplugs before any part breaking or pushing your devices away is almost always a feature, not a bug.

I se no advantage at all for the dual pin design.

It looks exactly like what I imagined by screw-lock USB connector, but the single pin seems to be a really inspired design somebody had and made the entire committee angry for some reason.

Why two different and incompatible options?

Or, more generally, why can’t I ever read some USB spec and get out with less questions than I had in the beginning?

inconsistent extrusion due to variation in hot end temp and/or filament width

Also, a moist filament.

About #1, it’s also very likely that your enclosure will not contain the full movement of the printer or will get too hot for the electronics and the lubrication.

But as people said, if you manage to build a good temperature control, printing with an enclosure is much better.